Ford Fusion A/C Compressor Won't Turn On
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Air Conditioning (A/C) Evaporator Discharge Air Temperature Sensor
Ford Fusion owners beware if your a/c has stopped working. Ford had a genius idea to install a sensor in the top of the evaporator case. What does this mean to the owners of the Fusion. I should start by saying there are many reason why your cars a/c can stop working. But on the Fusion if the a/c compressor is not turning on you will need to change the Evaporator Discharge Air Temperature Sensor. Basically the sensor tells the computer what the temperature the air is at the exit point of the evaporator and when it's to cold to turn off the compressor otherwise the system would freeze. Well these sensor short out and will not allow compressor operation. Ford is well aware these are faulty. So I suggest if your Fusion has low miles and is out of warranty you contact Ford and demand they repair this. I have changed this on cars as low as 22,000 miles but was over 3 years old. The problem is you must remove the entire dashboard to change this part and there is no way around it. Total Labor for this job including evacuation & recharge is 6.7 hrs. the part is $17.49. Depending on your area a average price for this job would be around $600 + tax. I do it for $500 out the door. I have heard of people paying in excess of $800 (wow crooks). If you are the do-it-yourself kinda person I will attach the instructions on how to below.
- Remove the instrument panel.
- Detach the A/C evaporator discharge air temperature sensor.
- Disconnect the A/C evaporator discharge air temperature sensor electrical connector.
- Remove the evaporator discharge air temperature sensor.
- To install, reverse the removal procedure.
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INSTRUMENT PANEL REMOVAL
Removal and Installation
CAUTION: Electronic modules are sensitive to static electrical charges. If exposed to these charges, damage may result.
- Depower the supplemental restraint system (SRS).
- Remove the floor console.
- Remove the LH and RH instrument panel end trim panels.
- Remove the weather striping from the front door openings near the instrument panel.
- Remove the A-pillar trim panels.
- Remove the RH and LH cowl kick panels.
- From behind the LH kick panel, disconnect the 2 electrical connectors.
8. CAUTION: To avoid damage to the bulkhead electrical connector, be sure the release handle is in the full UPWARD position before disconnecting the electrical connector. From behind the RH kick panel, disconnect the bulkhead electrical connector and the antenna lead-in cable.
9. From underneath the glove box, disconnect the 3 A/C electrical connectors.
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10. Disconnect the electrical connector and retainer located on the floor between the 2 front seats.
11. NOTE: To make sure of proper location during installation, index-mark the position of the steering column shaft before removing the pinch bolt. Remove the steering column pinch bolt.
12. Remove the instrument cluster finish panel.
13. Remove the instrument cluster.
- Remove the 2 screws.
- Remove the instrument cluster.
- Disconnect the electrical connector.
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- Remove the 2 instrument panel center brace bolts.
- To install, tighten to 20 Nm (15 lb-ft) .
- From through the instrument cluster opening, remove the 2 instrument cluster opening bolts.
- To install, tighten to 20 Nm (15 lb-ft) .
- Remove the 2 instrument panel lower bolts.
- To install, tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb-in) .
- CAUTION: To avoid damage to the instrument panel, this next step requires the help of an assistant. Remove the instrument panel.
- Remove the 3 instrument panel cowl side upper bolts.
- To install, tighten to 23 Nm (17 lb-ft) .
- CAUTION: To avoid an improper connection at the bulkhead electrical connector, be sure to position the connector for installation then push the release handle to the full DOWNWARD position until it clicks. To install, reverse the removal procedure.
- Repower the SRS.
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That's funny the last one I did had 22,000 miles and was out of warranty. I'm in South Florida. Where are you?
What is the part number for this? Do I have to go to the dealer to get it or it available at most auto part outlets?
Part # is 6E5Z*19C734*BA and is dealer item only. I paid $12.54 but I have a wholesale account. It should cost you $17.54
Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!! I just finished changing the sensor based on your instructions. Not only did it take just 4 hours, but I saved $800 dollars in labor the Ford dealership originally quoted me! Thanks again!!!
Your welcome Chris!
Very informative. I would think ford would take care of this issue, but as long as they can make a buck, I doubt they will bother. we are an import shop so we don't see many fusions, but we are seeing a similar issue with the volkswagen
Thank you very much!!! This was it. It did take about 4-5 hours total, but at the same time it was the first time that I took the center councel and dash apart on this vehicle. Actually, I just snaked my arm through the top storage bin area (that I pulled out) as the dash was tilted back about 8-10 inches. It was very easy and straight-forward. My only hang-ups where where I wasn't sure if I should just tug on a panel because I wasn't always sure if I would be tearing the plastic away from a screw holding it in place. All of the panels went back on nicely and I only have one random screw left over. Which looks like one that may have just went into the trim somewhere. Again, thanks! I saved myself a lot of $$$.
I have a 2007 Fusion that has 22,000 miles also....My A/C quit. Problem was the dryer which is inside the evaporator blew apart and sent little bb particles throughout the lines.
Did not finish my post....After fixing the dryer the mechanic found that the compressor was kicking off and on. Problem was the "under dash" sensor....Whole job cost me $1058. The dealer here in Mobile said it charges $1900 in and out the door. No wonder Ford didn't have to borrow any money for a bailout...lol
Steve I did the exact same thing snaked my arm in there.And you actually don't have to take all these items apart to get in there. I just wanted to give the full explanation on how it's done. There are alot of short cuts that can be done to get this job done in about 2 1/2 hrs. I will make a video on my next one.
George and your mechanic was wrong on that drier. First it's an accumulator and is located no where near the evaporator.He had no compressor operation and thats the only reason the switch would need changed. And he's ripping you off so find a new mechanic. LOL I can do this whole job for $500 out the door and make myself a killing.
Have my car at the dealer right now. I'm afraid this is going to be my problem and, if it is, I'm doubting my extended warranty will cover it. I'm hoping its a mechanical problem, though. My wife said she heard hissing under the center of the dash before the A/C stopped working.
The Hissing she heard was the a/c system depressurizing. But this item is covered under all extended warranty policies don't let them get over on you.
I just read your post i'm having this problem right now. Where exactly in south fl are you located?
Boca Raton
My 2007 fusion was diagnosed with the same failure, but since I work for a company in Mexico that produce and supply the outer rear view mirror to the Ford assembly plant where the Fusion is built I have some contacts there that provide me with a brand new sensor so I will try to do the replacement by my self following your instructions that by the way are very detailed, I just have one question, How I can depower the supplemental restraint system (SRS), what is the SRS is a connector or is something else inside the fuses box, please explain the procedure that I need to follow to do this. Thanks again
Just disconnect the battery John
HI Ray i need to get the same sensor changed, how can we get in contact so you can fix my car
Winston I am In South Florida where are you located?
I have a 2006 Ford Fusion with 86K miles. The A/C isn't blowing cold. The check engine light is on. Giving two codes P0446 and P0452. Would that have anything to do with it? Do you think this is my problem.
Ray/Steve,
How do I take just the center dash apart to enable me to snake my arm in? Do you have abbreviated instructions for that process, by-chance?
Ray, did you have a chance to make that video yet?
Thanks a ton!
Paul the dash will lay forward towards the seats and your arm will be able to get down the back of dash at the windshield side. You must take out all the bolts in this description. This whole job will take you 4 to 5 hrs. I'm doing them in around 3 now. But the whole dash will not need to come out of the vehicle.
Justin code PO452 is Evaporative Emissions System Pressure Sensor/Switch Low. if you want I can post how to fix that. But it will not leave you broke down. PO446 is Evaporavtive Emissions System Vent Control Circuit. What both codes are fuel fuel vapor from tank neither will leave you stranded but will make you fail inspection in some states.
Hey ray have you made the video yet i am interest on how to snake your arm in the back do you have to remove the center upper glove compartment on the top of the dash?
I have a 2008 fusion ac just stopped working and the compressor is not kicking on at all thinking of replacing this part first at 18 bucks just want to see it done if i can before i try it.
Thanks
Cash, I did the entire job on a Wednesday night after work. It did take me about 5 to 6 hours, but it is not over your head. I did take my driver and passenger seats out to give me more room (just make sure that you don't scratch anything when you pull them out. The whole thing was a lot easier than what I was preparing myself for. Although, I didn't break any speed records while doing it either. Also, once the dash is in the position to be pulled back a little, that is when I pulled that upper glove compartment off and reached through that opening to get at that sensor. You almost need to look through the windshield above the car to see where you are reaching before you reach in there to get at it.
Thanks for the info sounds easy enough. Wouldn't mind seeing a video either just to make double sure nothing gets broken. I am looking for the replacement part now and hope to tackle this thing in the next few weeks.
My a/c compressor will run for approx. 20 seconds at a time before turning off. I had the expansion valve replaced and that did not help. Would the sensor cause this problem?
Ray im about to do this job do you by chance know the Ohms reading for a good sensor and a bad sensor so i can test it before buying a new one Thx.
Ian, I replaced my sensor and you don't need an ohm meter as I could visually tell the sensor was bad. For $20, it is worth picking up the sensor, since the dash will be apart anyway.
Thx Bridic for the reply i tried hotwiring the sensor on the low pressure side and no clutch. But when i hotwire the clutch relay it comes on so i guess i will go ahead and try the Discharge Air Temp Sensor next Thx again for the reply Ian.
Ray, thanks so much for the info. It took me a bit more time to get it done, but it fixed the problem. I had it in a shop and they couldnt fix it prior. With the temp in the low 90's air is good. Again thanks.
Hey I just Change that evaporator sensor the one the is located behind the dash and the a/c works but when I first start the car the compressor doesn't turn on right away I takes like 5 minutes and then the compressor engages I did not vacuum the sistem you think the I need to vacuum and recharge the sistem that can be the problem thanks
hi i have a 2007 fusion and the ac is only blowing when im on the highway if i am stoped nothing will come out from the vents what do you thinks is happening
I got food News for all ya fusion owners RAY was right I vacuum and recharge my a/c and after I change the sensor and I got my a/c back the only step the I skip was the bolt of the steering shaft and the seats thank you very much RAY ohhh and the cute for the dealership was $550 aprox
Sorry all you guys I've been a little busy with work so haven't came on here.You are all welcome and any info you need on any cars just email me.
just wondering what the ohm reading on the eva sensor will be so i can tell if it is bad
Thank you for posting the instructions(mainly bolt locations). This allowed me to do it in an hour with help. We did just slide the dash back after unbolting. Feels great to have a/c again
Thanks for the details. I have a question, after reinstalling, my steering is off. I missed the index by a tooth or two on the shaft.
Any way to remedy this without a complete tear down?
just completed the steps on my own and finally have a/c again. u guys r life savers after a $800 quote from ford, the only problem that i encountered was a remaining spring and a white plastic piece it seems to attach to, have no idea where it belongs, any advice would be greatly appreciated
your welcome John
judge you can just remove the steering knuckle at the bottom of steering wheel and move it 2 teeth or you can get a wheel alignment but i suggest you rmove the lower steering shaft.
informative article.
Just paid the $850.00 to have my 2006 Milan repaired. If it goes again I'll replace it myself with
these great instructions!!
Ray I want to thank you for all your information. My 07 Fusion's A/C stopped working on the way home from vacation. The Ford dealer wanted 170.00 to just look at it!!!! After reading all your information I tried it myself. The only issues I ran into was not moving the power seat to get to the rear bolt on the center console and instrument cluster finish panel was a pain to get out. The sensor was 22.50 from the local Ford dealer. Your instructions were perfect. Thanks again and great advice!!! MSN used car review also flags this part.
I followed your instructions and now my wife is very happy again. I'm not going to lie it took me long than 6 hours to do the project, but it was ungodly hot today and I had to make two trip to the dealership because they gave me the wrong sensor the first time. Here in MN the sensor cost me just shy of $25 but they were in stock. Thank You Ray now I get my 07 F-350 Lariat Outlaw back from my wife.
Just finished myself thank you very much. one point to anyone about to do this, the sensor requires about a 45 degree turn counter clockwise to remove.
Only problem i have is that now i have an airbag light on. any ideas??
airbag light is gone now that i reinstalled the radio that i had left out in order to pull the stuck cds out of!
son bought a 2010 ford fusion hybrid. He cannot get the electrical motor of the car to kick in. He needs a relay located in the front fuse box attached to the radiator reinforcement. He has gone to several dealerships to get a part number for the 3 prong relay, with no luck. Is there someone out there with this same car who could look at their fuse box and give him a part number or amps needed. The relay is a square about 1 inch X 1 inch the largest relay in the fuse box in position 7 and a solid state relay.E-mail address if someone knows the part number or can help. Thanks,
jwenisch@centurytel.net
OK I finally bought the part after my second summer of no a/c. I just didn't have the money to pay for a mechanic to fix this....
I'm going to try it this weekend with my hubby...we can do this :) I'm not scared!
I'm glad I could help you all.
Is Ford aware of this yet and footing the bill for it or should I just do it myself?
It worked!! Took me about 3 hours to finish the job. Thanks for the info....you saved me a lot of money. :-D
Ray, I have a 2009 Fusion SEL is the configuration the same with this model as well? I've checked the pressures and they were fine, and the AC unit does not appear to be damaged in any way so I am thinking it is the sensor as well. and do you have that video yet :)
Is the Evaporator Discharge Air Temperature Sensor only on vehicles with the climate control or is this on ALL Fusions? Thanks!
How can I be sure that the switch is bad, before I remove the dash (almost) and change the switch. Are there other things I should check first?
Also, will the refrigerant need to be removed to replace this switch? I thought I read that earlier?
I was able to use a tooth pic to close the relay for the ac/clutch in the engine fuse box. The air blows cold now like it did before. I was wondering if this would narrow down the problem to being a faulty evaporator temperature sensor and is there any way that leaving it like this would work temporarily. If so would settings for the the air would make it work without freeze up or damaging other components.. I plan on fixing just dont have time right now and need to buy some time. Some air is better than none..
Will, did you drill a hole in the side of the relay to do this? If so, which side? Beside of pin 4 to push the relay contact into pin 5? This might help me isolate the problem.
I have the same problem Jon was having. The ac on my 2007 MKZ is cooling, but the compressor is cycling on and off about every 20 seconds--so it is not staying on long enough to cool the car adequately. I've already paid the dealer over $300 to recharge and check the system--so I feel pretty certain the cycling is not a freon issue. Could this sensor be the problem? Jon, if you're still around, did changing the sensor fix your cycling issue?
Re: My post 15 minutes ago: Ray, this is very helpful forum! Thanks for taking time to help us with shortcuts and diagrams. I may be about to head down this road, I'm afraid. Do you know if the sensor being discussed here is the same as the "Ambient Air Temperature Sensor" (Motorcraft YH1662) supposedly located in the evaporator case of a 2007 MKZ (like mine)? Could that cause the compressor to cycle?
dpdrum I do not recommend jumping the relay that will make the compressor run all the time. And after time the ac clucth will burn up.
Ed first you need to check for power at compressor. Then check for the ground signal at the relay when a/c is turned on. If there is no ground at relay then pcm is not telling the relay to fire which means that stuoid sensor is your problem and don't be scared its easy to do.
someone asked the question if the sensor is only in cars with automatic climate control.mitchell`s diagrams only shows it in these models. not manual temperature control.
I have a 2007 Ford Fusion and the a/c isn't working. The compressor isn't kicking in. I went to a local shop and they told me that the compressor is all banged up because the car has 120, 000 miles on it and said I need to replace the compressor, fluids & filters to the amount of $1100, could this be possible??? I need help!
Great info. Saved me a bunch of money. Took a little over three hours to complete. One little note, make sure to push yoke on steering column all the way in before moving the dash. Had to spend an extra fifteen minutes realigning the steering wheel when it slid off the end during removal of the dash.
tlkamen as them if there is power at your compressor?
Ed. Sorry this is a little late. I used a scan tool before changing the sensor out. The scan told me the car thought my air was blowing at negative 40 C. I changed out the sensor and it has worked perfect ever since
Hi. I am from Brazil and I don´t find any site/seller that ship to Brazil. Do you known any one that ship to Brazil? I have International Credit Card or Paypal. Thanks all!!!
Do you recommend replacing YH1663 first to see if it fixes the A/C. It's much easier to get to than YH1662.
Once you get there, to the evaporator, it will be helpful to have someone around with a small forearm to reach into it and change the sensor.
Unfortunately my problem turned out to be the compressor but at least I got familiar with taking out the dash on this car.
Lastly...I'm tired of Ford. I just traded in the Fusion for a new Nissan.
Same problem 2007 Ford Fusion.
Do you know if the Evap Temp Sensor can be reached by taking out passenger side airbag off instrument panel (dash board)?
teetime 20 months ago
My 2007 fusion with 30k miles was just diagnosed with this. If you are nearby I would like to talk with you about repairing this. Where are you located?